Downtown East Side, Vancouver's dark side:

Today's post will be a little different. A few photos with a few annotations. On all of my previous postings I have given you a glimpse using Tourist eyes. Places that I want to see when you visit my town and also to record places I have been in the Pacific North West, sort of a documentation of my adventures to out of the way places. Consider this a photo essay without much written substance. I am not political. I do not wish to enter into discussions involving religion(s), points of view nor argue about who is right or what has to be done. This is the Canadian way, we just sit back and accept what it is and mumble under our breath about how things should be. Our drug laws are too lax, we do not enforce them as viciously as they do south of the border. We have a big gang problem here somehow interconnected with the Mexican cartels. Drug dealers are being killed weekly, bodies are found dumped on the streets, then we have the 2010 Olympics where they are trying to hide the homeless from public view. It's a mess . . .

I wasn't sure how I was going to present this but I had been thinking about this for some time and recently I was prompted by a comment from Michael (Key West Diary) (<-- click link)


Conchscooter said: (comment of October 11, 2009)

Quote: "By the way where are all the freedom loving people living in cars and on the sidewalks? Jeez, Key West this surely isn't...."

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Let me first give you some background:

Quote: "Sending the homeless out of town might not be official policy, but with the 2010 Olympics looming, some worry it will be the ticket to cleaning up the Dante-like stretch of Vancouver known as the Downtown Eastside.

Every major city in Canada has destitute people, but nowhere are they concentrated in such a harrowing display of human desperation as in Vancouver, where a dense neighbourhood of junkies, streetwalkers and mentally ill people openly challenges British Columbia's licence-plate slogan, “The Best Place on Earth.” The area is a 10-minute stroll from the site designated as the Olympics' international media centre."

You can read the complete article here:

http://www.theglobeandmail.com:80/news/national/article704374.ece


The Downtown East Side of Vancouver straddles an area adjacent to Strathcona, one of the oldest areas of Vancouver


(Strathcona elementary school)

It was a grand area, once the premier area of the city with ornate buildings


(notice the bars)

It is a contradition of values. Drug dealers, homeless, artists and includes ordinary people just trying to make a living. while many homes have deteriorated and on their last legs


(Vancouver's Conch style housing)

many others have purchased into the area and restored their homes to better than new condition while retaining the character of times past


(typical period homes)

Others prefer to live in their townhome surrounded by chain link fence complete with barbed wire as a prisoner confined to their cell, while the criminals are allowed to roam around unencumbered.



The hub and epicentre of drug activity is centred on the intersections of Main & Hastings Street and compasses the poorest postal code in Canada which runs for 10 blocks west to Victory Square. It is not an area to frequent during the darkness of night and preferrably not by yourself even during the day. The "residents" do not take kindly to images of their likeness so taking covert photos was the priority of the day. I was not able to capture all of the images that I would have liked and feared that someone would notice a large camera with a longer lens. I opted for my small palm sized one and tried to hide it best as I was able. I used to do a lot of street photography down in this area years ago when some of the pawn shops were still operating and stopped when we perceived that it was too dangerous. The "bad dudes" (for lack of a better word) have an excellent radar system. They are able to immediately spot people who do not belong. I thought I was doing well during the torrential rain all bundled up in my Gortex Jacket and hat and someone came up to me with a sports bag and asked me if I was interested in a Video Camera. He opened his bag a bit so I could take a peek at it so obviously I wasn't as covert as I thought. The police started to enforce some by-law rules last year in anticipation of the 2010 Winter Olympics and just managed to move the drug dealers to another area farther west into some of the tourist areas of Granville Street and very close to Sunset Beach. I see them camped out in the lane with their garbage bag tents and cardboard mattresses but I didn't have the nerve to snap any photos. There are dozens of them and only one of me, and I didn't want to damage my handsome physique.

I can't post all of the photos here so have only selected a dozen or so. If you wish to view the whole set, just click on one photo and it will take you to the album hosted on Webshots. You should really avoid this area if you are visiting Vancouver. Whenever we see people who who obviously don't belong we try to steer them in the other direction. This "forbidden" zone is only one block north of Historic Chinatown and one block south of Historic Gastown and only one wrong left turn from the cruise ship terminal so you can see that it is very easy to stumble into this area by accident.

Every business has steel bars for security






(watch out for used needles discarded on the sidewalk)


(keeping out of the rain, in the bus shelter)




(living on the street)




(The Only: once the best seafood cafe in Vancouver)




(Carnegie Centre, once the best library in town)


(Insite: safe injection site government sponsored)


(even this temple is behind bars)



Strathcona and the Downtown Eastside: a contraction of old and new, of crooks, thieves, drug dealers and ordinary people living side by side trying to survive -- one day at a time. Be careful where you park, monitor your surroundings and don't go alone

Sunday at the Market

(Granville Island Market, Vancouver, BC)

Last week we went to a place where they were selling fish and shrimps directly "off" the docks. Today we had brunch at a waterfront restaurant and strolled the market looking at all the varieties of food available . For those that have never visited Vancouver will not know that Vancouver is on a peninsula surrounded my water on 3 sides. Most often you will need to travel over a bridge to arrive into the downtown area. Granville Island, is of course an island, in False Creek nearly directly beneath the Granville Street Bridge



False Creek is actually an inlet and we have a passenger ferry system which can transport you along many stops as far east as Science World. The most populace areas of the city are located in Kitsilano and the West End, and they are just a short ferry ride over to the other side.



There is a very large public market and public pier on the Island. Whilst it is not summer there are fewer people out exploring, but many are enjoying a day without rain or enjoying some food and beverage from a multitude of fast food vendors scattered around the area. You have a choice of foods from around the world; greek, oriental, japanese, thai to name a few, or the good old standby of burger and fries.



These docks are for those who arrive by water. Rather empty this time of year. If you look through the bridge you will see the former site of Expo 1986, which is now bustling with new development and condominiums. There is a walking & bicycle path around the whole inlet which will take you from the West End (and English Bay) to nearly the University of British Columbia campus on the far Western region of the city.



Last week we were able to purchase directly off the pier. Today the fish are laid out in rows of ice tempting you to make a purchase.



There are several fish vendors in the market. Actually there are vendors for nearly every possible combination of foods. You will be able to find food from anywhere around the world. Or even organic vegetables if that is your desire


(Organic tomatoes)


(deli food)


(eat dessert first)

I think it would be a good idea to eat first before you wander the isles as there is just too many things to buy. Everything looks delicious



Then there is the bakery



and if you wander over to the other side you will see this



and here is a place which only sells pies. You can buy a piece to have now, or a whole pie to take home. They also sell completely finished pies ready for the oven so you could take it home and bring home the freshly baked oven smells of fine home baking.



There are several bakeries to choose from, each specializing in their own signature dishes



This is a one stop shopping destination. Vegetables, fruits, baked goods, herbs, you name it and you will surely find what you are looking for. Granville island is a collection of buildings, clothes, outdoor wear, handicrafts, brewery, Arts club, it's hard to imagine what they don't sell here.



If you are not of the adventurous sort, and you only want carrots or potatoes, they have those too



Granville Island, an oasis in the middle of False Creek. An Island like no other. Be sure to visit when you come to Vancouver

Fish, Shrimp & Water

Fall is definitely in the air. Nearly bearable in the sun but chilly in the shade. This time of year you find yourself bundled in fleece and jackets to keep yourself warm(er). It was Sunday (family day), a time to go out in the car, have brunch somewhere and spend the afternoon either buying supplies, heading out for a ride, run a few errands, or visit friends . We hadn't been to Steveston in a while and when we arrived on the pier we noticed that the water levels were very high.



It was much busier than the last time we were here. This is a government wharf and there were lots of fishing boats docked with their owners attempting to sell their catch



There were many varieties of fish local to our BC waters caught on our northern coast . We came late in the day in the early afternoon and many types were already sold out



These were caught off the coast near the Queen Charlotte Islands using individual hooks



Here is a shrimp boat. Prices are dependant upon size of their catch.



There is quite the controvery up here regarding Farmed fish vs Wild fish. We have many fish farms dotting our coast and it is said that they generate unhealthy fish which spreads disease and bacteria to other species. Wild fish are the most popular



Fish aren't inexpensive. I remember not that long ago that prices were around half of what they are now. It has to do with the rapid depletion of the supply and the limited fishing season as dictated by the government.



I am sure that this is a tough way to make a living. Having to endure the elements in unsafe ocean waters, catching few fish and having to barter each sale.



Steveston is home to a large fishing fleet but most of the boats have been tied up for years, unable to fish. Fishing in our local waters around Vancouver are closed. These particular boats here today are from the North near Prince Rupert and fish the areas around the Queen Charlottes (Islands). I think that they have more Open fishing days allotted.



Of course where there are sellers, there are also looky-loos , either that or there is some serious negotiation happening



Not all boats are there to sell fish like this one which is a work of wooden art



Whether you are here to buy fish or shrimp or just have a nice meal on the boardwalk I would recommend a visit to Steveston one day when you have a few hours to spare. There are many restaurants here with enough to satisfy every palate. There is an old historic cannery turned into a museum, an old shipyard being refurbished and a collection of japanese buildings which used to house the cannery workers. There are also gift stores on the main street. During the warmer summer weather there are also buskers playing music.


(we had our meal at the one on the left)

Repairs: GIVI crash bar

When all is said and done, I was lucky that the damage to my Wee was mainly confined to the Givi crash bar and left side case. I am not in the habit of having to lay my bike down and the scenario had been flashing through my mind for several days. I was also lucky that we had summer-like temperatures last week when I purchased the supplies to undertake the repair since it is not recommended to paint during periods of low temperature as it would affect paint bonding.
While I had my armoured riding jacket on I think that my arm/shoulder took most of the force and "missed" the armoured pads as the snaps were bent and detached. I went down to my local HD (Home Depot) to purchase a couple of sanding blocks (different grits) and a spray bomb of Rust-o-leum flat black.



I sand the affected area firstly with the medium grit sanding block until the surfaces smooths out a bit. Then I changed to the finer grit to get ready for the paint.



When the sanding is finished I mask off the area to contain the overspray using plastic garbage bags held by masking tape



I carefully wipe the bar down with paper towels before painting



I apply a few layers of flat black paint applied in a sweeping motion from lower to upper being careful to hold the can farther back so as to have a finer mist. I allow 10 minutes or so between layers and eventually I have full coverage of the affected area. It was surprising to note that the flat black paint nearly matches the original colour and the damage is nearly invisible with a closer inspection



Eventually I am satisfied with my progress and go out to run some errands for a few hours allowing time for the paint to cure.

While I am heading downtown in the next lane I notice that a cager is crowding this motorcyclist who is riding a Beemer. I find a way to change lanes to protect his rear. I am heading north on Cambie Street intending to ride over the Cambie Street Bridge.


(downtown Vancouver ahead)

Often when I come across scooters on busy thoroughfares I pull behind and back off to allow them some safety. I hope they appreciate my gesture.


(BMW R75/5)

The look of older BMW's is growing on me and I wonder if this particular model has the self retracting side stand.

I eventually return home and remove all the masking tape and plastic. I try to sand the side case a bit, mask off the area and apply a few layers of flat black to minimize the "battle scars" . It works a bit and is less noticeable but the scratches are still there. I think it's time to affix a Canadian flag sticker. Of course I have the option of purchasing another side case if I have an extra $250. to blow. For now it is a badge of honour.



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Mr Conchscooter:
said


quote: "WetBob, some people change their oil on the only stand they have, so one can't be too cautious. The Bonneville cuts out if you put the engine in gear with the side stand deployed, and one day I'll try it and see if the lurch is enough to topple it. How do you know where the wee strom's filter is? you've only had it a week...? (I think you actually rode bitch on the very cool MP3 around l'isle de vancouvre)"



My oil filter is mounted on its side on the front of the engine just behind the front wheel. Nearly impossible to fill and screw on without dripping